Installation of MA253/MA203/MA103 (1 Channel) and A203/A103
(2 Channel) Amplifier Feedback Stabilizer

WARNING: THE AMPLIFIER OUTPUT MUST BE ABLE TO HANDLE A CAPACITIVE LOAD OF UP TO 0.08uF. (Best results are obtained with amplifiers that can handle a capacitive load of up to 0.33uF.) THIS IS TRUE FOR MOST CONVENTIONAL COMMERCIAL AMPLIFIERS. WHEN IN DOUBT (SUCH AS VACUUM TUBE, OR UNCONVENTIONAL TECHNOLOGY), CONSULT THE MANUFACTURER.

In this case it may be more convenient to use red INSULATION DISPLACEMENT CONNECTORS (IDC) to PERMANENTLY tap the stabilizer wires into the amplifier's output wires. (The tap locations must be as close to the amplifier circuitry as possible). IDC is provided upon request.

To use the IDC, cut off the stripped portion from the end of the stabilizer wires first, before inserting into the IDC. Using pliers, clamp the IDC so that the stabilizer wires and the amplifier output wires are electrically connected together. NOTE: IF INSTALLATION IS TOO DIFFICULT, USE THE SERVICES OF A PROFESSIONAL.

See Example of Subwoofer Installation Below.

 

Example Installation of A103 (or A203)

Example Installation of A103 (or A203) onto Monoblocks or Amps with Speaker Terminals Far Apart

Installation of QA203/QA103 (4 Channel) and HA203/HA103 (6 Channel) Amplifier Feedback Stabilizer

WARNING: THE AMPLIFIER OUTPUT MUST BE ABLE TO HANDLE A CAPACITIVE LOAD OF UP TO 0.08uF. (Best results are obtained with amplifiers that can handle a capacitive load of up to 0.33uF.) THIS IS TRUE FOR MOST CONVENTIONAL COMMERCIAL AMPLIFIERS. WHEN IN DOUBT (SUCH AS VACUUM TUBE, OR UNCONVENTIONAL TECHNOLOGY), CONSULT THE MANUFACTURER.

In this case it may be more convenient to use red INSULATION DISPLACEMENT CONNECTORS (IDC) to PERMANENTLY tap the stabilizer wires into the amplifier's output wires. (The tap locations must be as close to the amplifier circuitry as possible). IDC is provided upon request.

To use the IDC, cut off the stripped portion from the end of the stabilizer wires first, before inserting into the IDC. Using pliers, clamp the IDC so that the stabilizer wires and the amplifier output wires are electrically connected together. NOTE: IF INSTALLATION IS TOO DIFFICULT, USE THE SERVICES OF A PROFESSIONAL.
 

Example Installation of HA103 (or HA203)

Important Note Regarding Surround Back Connections on some Receivers:

Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (130KB)

If your receiver's surround back speaker terminals look something like this where there are two sets of speaker terminals but they tell you to hook a single speaker to a diagonal set of terminals, please be careful! These two sets of surround back speaker terminals are really connected in series. What that means is DO NOT CONNECT the stabilizer to any of the speaker terminals that are not part of the single speaker hook-up. In the picture to the left, do not connect the stabilizer wires to the upper right or lower left speaker terminals since these points are not true amplifier outputs. If you have any question about the surround back connections of your receiver, please consult DakiOm customer service.

In Bridged amplifier configurations, two channels are combined to drive a single speaker (for example, a stereo amplifier bridged to become a mono amplifier). The diagram below shows how to connect Feedback Stabilizers to a bridged amplifier. The two red wires from the Stabilizer Box are connected to the two red (+) speaker terminals on the bridged amp. The black wire from the Stabilizer box is connected to either of the black (-) speaker terminals on the bridged amp. The speaker should then be connected to the two red (+) terminals of the amp as described in the amplifier's product manual. (See diagram below).

Note: When the Stabilizer is connected to an amp that is bridged, the output load is shared across two Stabilizer circuits. Each red wire from the Stabilizer Box handles half the total power output of the bridged amplifier. Therefore with a bridged amplifier, the Stabilizer Box can handle effectively twice the power into a single speaker. Make sure the Stabilizer is connected correctly to the bridged amp before exposing it to higher power output levels.

For example, the A103's power rating would be increased to: 

	15 to 320 Watts/Channel maximum into 8 Ohm speaker impedance (bridged amp only)
	15 to 600 Watts/Channel maximum into 4 Ohm speaker impedance (bridged amp only)
	15 to 1200 Watts/Channel maximum into 2 Ohm speaker impedance (bridged amp only)

NOTE: Installation steps for your particular subwoofer may vary. Consult a professional if you are unsure you can perform the installation or if you find the installation too difficult! Make sure the powered subwoofer is completely unplugged and disconnected before beginning. Please read through all the instructions before beginning.

Step 1: 

Identify the access panel to your powered subwoofer's electronics.

Carefully remove the screws holding the access panel in place. (In this case, the retaining screws are located along the outside edge of the panel, but may vary in other models.)

Note: For some subwoofers, it may be more convenient to gain internal access by removing the speaker itself and entering from the speaker opening.

Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (600KB)

Step 2:

After removing the screws holding in the access panel, open it to reveal the inside of the subwoofer (in some subwoofers, you may see exposed electronics circuits or just a box that is housing them).

Take the amplifier Feedback Stabilizer and cut off the pre-stripped (un-insulated) ends of the RED wires using wire cutters or scissors as shown in the picture. Leave the black wire pre-stripped for now.

Next, start from the speaker, find the wire pair connected to the speaker. Follow this wire pair back towards the electronic box (as shown in the picture) or towards the open circuitry driving it (as in other cases). At the end of this wire pair is the spot closest to the amplifier output where we want to attach the Feedback Stabilizer.

Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (600KB)

Step 3:

Determine if your Subwoofer has a Bridged Amplifier: Some powered subwoofers use bridged amplifier configurations (this is more common in higher wattage subwoofers). The connection of the Feedback Stabilizer to a bridged amplifier is slightly different from that of a normal amplifier (not bridged). We recommend consulting with the manufacturer to ask if their powered subwoofer utilizes a bridged amplifier. Test to Determine If Subwoofer Amplifier Has a Bridged Configuration If you are still unsure, you can perform the following test to find out what type of amplifier is present in the subwoofer. This test requires a Digital Multimeter or Ohmmeter (instrument capable of measuring electrical resistance). Note: This test is designed to cover most conventional amplifier designs, but cannot be guaranteed to work in all cases. 1) Identify the RCA input to the subwoofer. Locate the ground (negative) connection of the RCA jack - this is round metallic outer shell of the RCA input jack. This point is considered to be the ground of the subwoofer. 2) Set your Multimeter or Ohmmeter to its 200 Ohm or 2K Ohm range setting so you can accurately measure resistances less that 200 Ohms. 3) Locate all the wires going from the subwoofer's amplifier to the speaker/driver. Measure the resistance from the RCA ground to each of these wires. (Make sure you find a conductive part of the wire such as their connection terminals). Any measured resistance of less than 20 Ohms is to be considered a connection to ground. If any of the wires going from the subwoofer amplifier to the speaker/driver is found to be connected to ground, then the amplifier is not likely to be of the bridged type. Follow the installation steps for the type of amplifier inside your Subwoofer:

Normal Amplifier (Not Bridged) Take the amplifier Feedback Stabilizer and cut off the pre-stripped (un-insulated) end of the BLACK wire using wire cutters or scissors. Insert the ground speaker wire (usually black) into one of the included red Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDC). Use the slot that is open on both ends (not blocked off). Insert the black wire from the Feedback Stabilizer box into the other slot of the same IDC. This slot is closed at one end (blocked off).  Use a pair of pliers and clamp down on the metal part of the IDC. This action creates a good electrical connection between the wires.   Close the plastic flap on the IDC with your fingers. (Do not use pliers to close it as this may break it off.) It should not require much force if the metal part is squeezed down far enough. Repeat the previous steps to connect the positive speaker wire (usually red) with a red wire from the Feedback Stabilizer box using another IDC.  Use tape to seal off the unused red wire from the Feedback Stabilizer box. We recommend bending the wire into a loop and taping it off as shown in the figure below with yellow tape.

Bridged Amplifier Insert one of the speaker wires into one of the included red Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDC). Use the slot that is open on both ends (not blocked off). Insert the red wire from the Feedback Stabilizer box into the other slot of the same IDC. This slot is closed at one end (blocked off).  Use a pair of pliers and clamp down on the metal part of the IDC. This action creates a good electrical connection between the wires.   Close the plastic flap on the IDC with your fingers. (Do not use pliers to close it as this may break it off.) It should not require much force if the metal part is squeezed down far enough. Repeat the previous steps to connect the remaining speaker wire with the other red wire from the Feedback Stabilizer box using another IDC. Connect the black wire from the Feedback Stabilizer box to a ground point on the subwoofer amplifier. Use a multimeter or ohmmeter to find a convenient connection point that has a low resistance to the RCA ground (<< 1 Ohm). (For example, a metallic screw, a connection terminal, or a place on an exposed circuit board). For best results the ground point should be close to the output circuitry of the amplifier.

The picture below shows the Stabilizer connected to normal subwoofer amplifier (not bridged).

Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (600KB)

Tape the Feedback Stabilizer box securely to the inside of the subwoofer to make sure it isn't loose and doesn't rattle inside. Close up the access panel and screw everything back together.

Congratulations! Your subwoofer will now offer much improved BASS sound. You can turn up the volume to enjoy REAL bass!

Note: The IDC makes a fairly permanent connection. It may take some effort to remove. The IDC can only be used once - it should not be reused. Also, do not attempt to use the IDC if its plastic flap is broken.

 

The pictures below show how to use an amplifier stabilizer with normal parallel (zip) speaker wire and connect it to the amplifier speaker terminal. This method is a cost effective and simple way to hook up the stabilizer.

	Step 1. Strip the speaker wire and twist it together with the wires from the amplifier stabilizer.
	Step 2. Tape the stabilizer and speaker wires together to hold them in place together.
	Step 3. Insert the wires into the binding post and tighten down on it to make a solid connection.

 

The pictures below show how to use an amplifier stabilizer with normal parallel (zip) speaker wire and connect it to the amplifier speaker terminal. This method uses the banana plugs available from DakiOm as accessories. The use of banana plugs adds convenience since it is easier plug and unplug the cables and the banana plugs have screws that can more tightly hold the wires in place. This method is most useful with the QA103 and HA203/HA103 because of the number of wires involved.

	Step 1. Strip the speaker wire and twist it together with the wires from the amplifier stabilizer.
	Step 2. Take the banana plugs and then unscrew off their plastic boots. The metal part of the banana plug has two small screws in it which should be unscrewed out so the barrel is completely open. Insert the stabilizer/speaker wire pair into the barrel and tighten the small screws down on them. Then put the plastic boots back on.
	Step 3. Plug the bananas into your amplifier.

 

If your speaker wires are connected to the amplifier terminals via spades. Then simply connect the stabilizer wires to the bananas and just plug the bananas into the amplifier. Bananas and spades can coexist on the same binding post. This method is highly recommended since spades typically offer the most rigid connections for the speaker wires and the stabilizers with bananas are easy to connect and remove. This method makes A/B testing very easy.

 

Another method of connecting the stabilizers and speaker wires to the amplifier is to use stacking bananas plugs for the speaker wires.

Here stackable bananas are used for the speaker wires. The wires from the amplifier stabilizer are connected to banana plugs that are plugged into the speaker wires. This arrangement also makes for easy A/B testing. Another variation is to reverse the speaker wire and stabilizer wires (this keeps the stabilizer closest to the amplifier for best performance).

 

Please contact customer service if you have any installation questions.