- Connect the wires from the Feedback Stabilizer to the amplifier's speaker
terminals. (The idea is to piggyback the Stabilizer onto the speaker
terminals.) The red wires from the stabilizer go to the red (+)
speaker terminals. The black wire from the stabilizer goes to either
black (-) speaker terminal.
- Make sure you connect the Stabilizer directly to the speaker terminals (or as
close as possible for best results).
- Installation of 1 or 2 Channel Stabilizers
are similar. Shown below is diagram of A203/A103 (2 Channels).
- The A103 Feedback Stabilizer is designed to handle
the following amplifier output power levels:
- 15 to 160 Watts/Channel maximum into 8
Ohm speaker impedance
- 15 to 300 Watts/Channel maximum into
4 Ohm speaker impedance
- 15 to 600 Watts/Channel maximum into
2 Ohm speaker impedance
- The A203 / A103+ Feedback Stabilizer is designed to handle
the following amplifier output power levels:
- 20 to 280 Watts/Channel maximum into 8
Ohm speaker impedance
- 20 to 560 Watts/Channel maximum into
4 Ohm speaker impedance
- 20 to 1120 Watts/Channel maximum into
2 Ohm speaker impedance
- The MA253 / MA203 / MA103 Feedback Stabilizer is designed to handle
the following amplifier output power levels:
- 20 to 560 Watts/Channel maximum into 8
Ohm speaker impedance
- 20 to 1120 Watts/Channel maximum into
4 Ohm speaker impedance
- 20 to 2240 Watts/Channel maximum into
2 Ohm speaker impedance
- If only one RED wire is needed (such as for one speaker only), secure the unused red wire to ground or seal it
off (such as by wrapping electrical tape around the exposed wire).
WARNING: THE AMPLIFIER OUTPUT MUST BE ABLE TO HANDLE
A CAPACITIVE
LOAD OF UP TO 0.08uF. (Best results are obtained with amplifiers that can
handle a capacitive load of up to 0.33uF.) THIS IS TRUE FOR MOST CONVENTIONAL COMMERCIAL AMPLIFIERS. WHEN IN DOUBT (SUCH AS VACUUM TUBE,
OR UNCONVENTIONAL TECHNOLOGY), CONSULT THE MANUFACTURER.
-
In some situations, the amplifier outputs to the speakers are just wires with no speaker terminals available (for example:
in-dash car
stereos, powered subwoofers, etc.)
In this case it may be more convenient to use red
INSULATION DISPLACEMENT CONNECTORS (IDC) to PERMANENTLY tap the stabilizer wires into the amplifier's output wires.
(The tap locations must be as close to the amplifier circuitry as possible). IDC
is provided upon request.
To use the IDC, cut off the stripped portion from the end of the stabilizer
wires first, before inserting into the IDC. Using pliers, clamp the IDC so that
the stabilizer wires and the amplifier output wires are electrically connected together.
NOTE: IF INSTALLATION IS TOO DIFFICULT, USE THE SERVICES OF A PROFESSIONAL.
See Example of Subwoofer
Installation Below.
|
The photo on the left shows how the Feedback
Stabilizer is connected to the amplifier and two 20- foot coils
of speaker wire (to connect to speakers). |
Click Images Above for Bigger Pictures
(300KB,
700 KB)
|
The photo on the left is a close-up of the wire connection. Notice how the wires from the
Feedback Stabilizer box tap the amplifier terminals where the speaker wires are
connected.
Amplifiers may differ in the horizontal or vertical
orientation of the red(+) and black(-) terminals.
Some amplifiers have binding posts instead of the push
(compression) terminals shown in this picture. See below for examples of
this. |
|
|
On a pair of monoblock
amplifiers or in the case of a stereo amplifiers with speaker
terminals too far apart for a single A203/A103's reach, two A203/A103's
must be used. Each A203/A103 will stabilize a separate channel. Be sure to tape off
the unused Red wire so it doesn't short to anything. |
|
Click Above Image For Bigger
Picture(274KB)
|
Connect each A203/A103 to
stabilize a single channel as shown on the left hand picture. Two
MA253/MA203/MA103 are also ideal for monoblock
amplifiers or if speaker terminals are too far apart. |
- Connect the wires from the Feedback Stabilizer to the amplifier's speaker
terminals. (The idea is to piggyback the Stabilizer onto the speaker
terminals.) The red wires from the stabilizer go to the red (+)
speaker terminals. The black wire from the stabilizer goes to any black
(-) speaker terminal.
- Make sure you connect the Stabilizer directly to the speaker terminals (or as
close as possible for best results).
- Installation of all 4 or 6 Channel Stabilizers
are similar. Shown below is diagram of HA103 or HA203
(6 Channels).
- The QA103 and HA103 Feedback Stabilizers
are designed to handle
the following amplifier output power levels:
- 15 to 160 Watts/Channel maximum into 8
Ohm speaker impedance
- 15 to 300 Watts/Channel maximum into
4 Ohm speaker impedance
- 15 to 600 Watts/Channel maximum into
2 Ohm speaker impedance
- The QA203 and HA203 Feedback Stabilizer is designed to handle
the following amplifier output power levels:
- 20 to 280 Watts/Channel maximum into 8
Ohm speaker impedance
- 20 to 560 Watts/Channel maximum into
4 Ohm speaker impedance
- 20 to 1120 Watts/Channel maximum into
2 Ohm speaker impedance
- If not all red wires are needed (such as
fewer number of speakers than stabilizer channels), secure the unused red wire to ground or seal it
off (such as by wrapping electrical tape around the exposed wire).
WARNING: THE AMPLIFIER OUTPUT MUST BE ABLE TO HANDLE
A CAPACITIVE
LOAD OF UP TO 0.08uF. (Best results are obtained with amplifiers that can
handle a capacitive load of up to 0.33uF.) THIS IS TRUE FOR MOST CONVENTIONAL COMMERCIAL AMPLIFIERS. WHEN IN DOUBT (SUCH AS VACUUM TUBE,
OR UNCONVENTIONAL TECHNOLOGY), CONSULT THE MANUFACTURER.
In this case it may be more convenient to use red
INSULATION DISPLACEMENT CONNECTORS (IDC) to PERMANENTLY tap the stabilizer wires into the amplifier's output wires.
(The tap locations must be as close to the amplifier circuitry as possible). IDC
is provided upon request.
To use the IDC, cut off the stripped portion from the end of the stabilizer
wires first, before inserting into the IDC. Using pliers, clamp the IDC so that
the stabilizer wires and the amplifier output wires are electrically connected together.
NOTE: IF INSTALLATION IS TOO DIFFICULT, USE THE SERVICES OF A PROFESSIONAL.
Click Image Above for Bigger Picture
(239KB) |
Strip the speaker
wire and twist it together with the wires from the amplifier
stabilizer. Then tape the stabilizer and speaker wires together to
hold them in place together. |
Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (557KB) |
Insert the wires into the
receiver's speaker terminals and tighten down on the connections. Then
check all your connections carefully. |
-
If your receiver/amplifier
accepts bananas plug, we recommend making the connections using banana
plugs (available from DakiOm as accessories). The pictures below show the
HA103 connections made with bananas. This method is more convenient since
it is easier to plug and unplug the cables. The screws on the banana plugs
can also hold the speaker wire and stabilizer wire together more tightly.
Click Image Above for Bigger Picture
(239KB) |
Strip the speaker
wire and twist it together with the wires from the amplifier
stabilizer.
Take the banana plugs and then unscrew off
their plastic boots. The metal part of the banana plug has two small
screws in it which should be unscrewed out so the barrel is completely
open. Insert the stabilizer/speaker wire pair into the barrel and
tighten the small screws down on them. Then put the plastic boots back
on. |
Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (430KB) |
Insert the bananas into
the receiver's speaker terminals. Then check all your connections
carefully. |
mportant
Note Regarding Surround Back Connections on some Receivers:
Click Image Above for Bigger Picture
(130KB) |
If your receiver's
surround back speaker terminals look something like this where there
are two sets of speaker terminals but they tell you to hook a single
speaker to a diagonal set of terminals, please be careful!
These two sets of surround back
speaker terminals are really connected in series. What that means is
DO NOT CONNECT the stabilizer to any of the speaker terminals that are
not part of the single speaker hook-up. In the picture to the left, do
not connect the stabilizer wires to the upper right or lower left
speaker terminals since these points are not true amplifier outputs.
If you have any question about the surround back connections of your
receiver, please consult DakiOm customer service.
|
In Bridged amplifier
configurations, two
channels are combined to drive a single speaker (for example, a stereo
amplifier bridged to become a mono amplifier). The diagram below shows
how to connect Feedback Stabilizers to a bridged amplifier. The two red
wires from the Stabilizer Box are connected to the two red (+) speaker
terminals on the bridged amp. The black wire from the Stabilizer box is
connected to either of the black (-) speaker terminals on the bridged amp.
The speaker should then be connected to the two red (+) terminals of the
amp as described in the amplifier's product manual. (See diagram below).
Note: When the Stabilizer is connected to an
amp that is bridged, the output load is shared across two Stabilizer
circuits. Each red wire from the Stabilizer Box handles half the total power
output of the bridged amplifier. Therefore with a bridged amplifier, the
Stabilizer Box can handle effectively twice the power into a single speaker.
Make sure the Stabilizer is connected correctly to
the bridged amp before exposing it to higher power output levels.
For example, the A103's power rating would be increased to:
- 15 to 320 Watts/Channel maximum into 8
Ohm speaker impedance (bridged amp only)
- 15 to 600 Watts/Channel maximum into
4 Ohm speaker impedance (bridged amp only)
- 15 to 1200 Watts/Channel maximum into
2 Ohm speaker impedance (bridged amp only)
NOTE: Installation steps for your
particular subwoofer may vary. Consult a
professional if you are unsure you can perform the installation or if you find
the installation too difficult! Make sure the powered subwoofer is completely
unplugged and disconnected before beginning. Please read through all the
instructions before beginning.
Step 1:
Identify the access panel to your powered subwoofer's electronics.
Carefully remove the screws holding the access panel in place. (In this case,
the retaining screws are located along the outside edge of the panel, but may vary in other
models.)
Note: For some subwoofers, it
may be more convenient to gain internal access by removing the speaker itself
and entering from the speaker opening.
Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (600KB)
Step 2:
After removing the screws holding in the access panel, open it to
reveal the inside of the subwoofer
(in some subwoofers, you may see exposed
electronics circuits or just a box that is housing them).
Take the amplifier
Feedback Stabilizer and cut off the pre-stripped (un-insulated) ends of the RED
wires using wire cutters or scissors as shown in the picture. Leave the
black wire pre-stripped for now.
Next, start from the speaker, find the wire pair connected
to the speaker. Follow this wire pair back towards the electronic box (as
shown in the picture) or towards the open circuitry driving it (as in other
cases). At the end of this wire pair is the spot closest to the amplifier
output where we want to attach the Feedback Stabilizer.
Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (600KB)
Step 3:
Determine
if your Subwoofer has a Bridged Amplifier:
Some powered subwoofers
use bridged amplifier configurations (this is more common in higher
wattage subwoofers). The connection of the Feedback Stabilizer to a
bridged amplifier is slightly different from that of a normal amplifier
(not bridged). We recommend consulting with the manufacturer to ask if
their powered subwoofer utilizes a bridged amplifier.
Test
to Determine If Subwoofer Amplifier Has a Bridged Configuration
If you are still
unsure, you can perform the following test to find out what type
of amplifier is present in the subwoofer. This test requires a
Digital Multimeter or Ohmmeter (instrument capable of measuring
electrical resistance). Note: This test is
designed to cover most conventional amplifier designs, but
cannot be guaranteed to work in all cases.
1) Identify the
RCA input to the subwoofer. Locate the ground (negative)
connection of the RCA jack - this is round metallic outer shell
of the RCA input jack. This point is considered to be the ground
of the subwoofer.
2) Set your
Multimeter or Ohmmeter to its 200 Ohm or 2K Ohm range setting so
you can accurately measure resistances less that 200 Ohms.
3) Locate all the
wires going from the subwoofer's amplifier to the
speaker/driver. Measure the resistance from the RCA ground to
each of these wires. (Make sure you find a conductive part of
the wire such as their connection terminals). Any measured
resistance of less than 20 Ohms is to be considered a connection
to ground.
If any of the
wires going from the subwoofer amplifier to the speaker/driver
is found to be connected to ground, then the amplifier is not
likely to be of the bridged type.
|
Follow the installation steps for the
type of amplifier inside your Subwoofer: |
| Normal Amplifier
(Not Bridged)
Take the amplifier
Feedback Stabilizer and cut off the pre-stripped (un-insulated) end of the
BLACK wire using wire cutters or scissors.
Insert the ground speaker wire (usually black) into one of the included red
Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDC). Use the slot that is open on both
ends (not blocked off).
Insert the black wire
from the Feedback Stabilizer box into the other slot of the same IDC.
This slot is closed at one end (blocked off).
Use a pair of pliers and clamp down on the metal part of the
IDC. This action creates a good electrical
connection between the wires.
Close the plastic flap on the IDC with your fingers. (Do not use pliers to close
it as this may break it off.) It should not require much force if the
metal part is squeezed down far enough.
Repeat the previous steps to connect the positive speaker wire (usually red) with
a red wire from the Feedback Stabilizer box using another IDC.
Use tape to
seal off the unused red wire from
the Feedback Stabilizer box. We recommend bending the wire into a loop and taping it
off as shown in the figure below with yellow tape.
|
Bridged
Amplifier
Insert one of the speaker wires into one of the included red
Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDC). Use the slot that is open on both
ends (not blocked off).
Insert the red wire
from the Feedback Stabilizer box into the other slot of the same IDC.
This slot is closed at one end (blocked off).
Use a pair of pliers and clamp down on the metal part of the
IDC. This action creates a good electrical
connection between the wires.
Close the plastic flap on the IDC with your fingers. (Do not use pliers to close
it as this may break it off.) It should not require much force if the
metal part is squeezed down far enough.
Repeat the previous steps
to connect the remaining speaker wire with the other red wire from the Feedback Stabilizer
box using another IDC.
Connect the black wire
from the Feedback Stabilizer box to a ground point on the subwoofer
amplifier. Use a multimeter or ohmmeter to find a convenient connection
point that has a low resistance to the RCA ground (<< 1 Ohm). (For
example, a metallic screw, a connection terminal, or a place on an
exposed circuit board). For best results the ground point should be
close to the output circuitry of the amplifier.
|
The picture below shows the
Stabilizer connected to normal subwoofer amplifier (not bridged).
Click Image Above for Bigger Picture (600KB)
Tape the Feedback Stabilizer box securely to the inside of the subwoofer to make sure
it isn't loose and doesn't rattle inside. Close up the access panel and screw
everything back together.
Congratulations! Your subwoofer will now offer much improved BASS sound.
You can turn up the volume to enjoy REAL bass!
Note: The IDC makes a fairly permanent
connection. It may take some effort to remove. The IDC can only be used once
- it should not be reused. Also, do not attempt to use the IDC if its plastic
flap is
broken.
The instructions below
demonstrate various ways to connect the amplifier stabilizers (MA253, MA203, A203,
HA203, MA103, A103,
QA103, HA103) to amplifiers and
receivers with binding post type speaker terminals. Use the set of
instructions/hints that may apply to your situation. In all cases check your
connections carefully and consult your component manufacturer or owner's
manual if necessary.
 |
Step 1. Strip the speaker
wire and twist it together with the wires from the amplifier
stabilizer. |
 |
Step 2. Tape the
stabilizer and speaker wires together to hold them in place together. |
 |
Step 3. Insert the wires
into the binding post and tighten down on it to make a solid
connection. |
uses the banana plugs available from
DakiOm as accessories. The use of banana plugs adds convenience since it
is easier plug and unplug the cables and the banana plugs have screws that
can more tightly hold the wires in place. This method is most useful with
the QA103 and HA203/HA103 because of the number of wires involved.
|
Step 1. Strip the speaker
wire and twist it together with the wires from the amplifier
stabilizer. |
 |
Step 2.
Take the banana plugs and then unscrew off
their plastic boots. The metal part of the banana plug has two small
screws in it which should be unscrewed out so the barrel is completely
open. Insert the stabilizer/speaker wire pair into the barrel and
tighten the small screws down on them. Then put the plastic boots back
on. |
 |
Step 3. Plug
the bananas into your amplifier. |
|
|
Here stackable bananas are
used for the speaker wires. The wires from the amplifier stabilizer
are connected to banana plugs that are plugged into the speaker wires.
This arrangement also makes for easy A/B testing. Another variation is
to reverse the speaker wire and stabilizer wires (this keeps the
stabilizer closest to the amplifier for best performance). |
Please contact customer service if
you have any installation questions. |
