Do It Yourself (DIY) Projects by DakiOm!
While other places try to push
expensive non-performing stuff based on non-sense, DakiOm offers rational, scientific
proposals for improving sound quality. Proposals that you can test and verify. We are proud to introduce our DIY
Projects. We hope you will try them to confirm our expertise, then try our products. DakiOm, the only rational place in the audio world...
DakiOm is a new outfit, scientifically revolutionary in the subject of sound quality improvement. Our theory on inherently unstable amplification of high frequency (HF) noises explains very well the
poor quality of so many audio amplifiers and players. It also offers the
best explanation as for why sound quality is degraded as a result of mechanical vibration on electronic circuits and on wiring. Circuit characteristics, including impedance of wires, determine the amplification of HF noises. Theoretically, the changes of
geometry caused by vibration, therefore impedance of wires can modulate unstable amplified HF noises into
In summary, we theorize that all competent amps should reproduce audio signals perfectly. The difference in musicality of amps
($200 amp vs $2000 amp) is the result of the amount of unstable amplification of HF noises that injects more or less garbage into the perfect audio signals. Some amps are more stable than others, therefore are more musical.
However, presently, no commercial circuit is stable enough to reproduce acceptable
music quality. Music quality is presently poor, regardless of system costs. Commercial
and high end amplifiers compare marginally better, not worth swapping for
the cost. The only solution to really improving audio circuits is our new techniques for stabilization of amplifiers.
With the right theory of why audio circuits perform poorly, we can
use ordinary electronic parts in extraordinary circuits to do the job. By
contrast, without a good theory for guidance, current high end
systems use exotic parts in ordinary circuits. These are expensive non-solutions, bordering on snake oil.
For example, why use a $20 transistor and a $5 capacitor to try to make a
40 year old circuit produce better sound. Instead, the "right"
circuit can produce superior sound with $0.50 transistors and $0.10
With our theory as a guide, we already have a glimpse to the power of true reproduced sound. True reproduced sound (needed for good reproduced music) is relaxing, emotional and
exciting. Our goal is to get there, to get to true (reproduced) sound.
Since presently, we can only identify musical like/dislike, the best test for achieving the goal of true reproduced sound is the improvement to all kinds of reproduced music. To us, an audio system reproducing true sound should satisfy any listener of any kind of music. We cannot yet compare reproduced music to “live” because the characteristics of “live” are vague and undefined, unsuitable for scientific comparison. We must first define the variables necessary to identify “live”, clearly we fail to do this so far.
We don’t sell "stuff", we sell better reproduced music. Therefore please evaluate our products in this context. The purpose of our DIY projects is to supplement
you with some ideas and products that we cannot manufacture yet (due to our present limitations) but they are important for better music.
These few but critical DIY projects are developed by DakiOm and are proven to be the best
returns for your time (cost is relatively small). We believe that unless you get these projects done, you will never get true (reproduced) sound.
The few DIY tweaks below will turn your
poor sounding electronics into a world best system (but you have to select good speakers, and of course, get all appropriate DakiOm products such as R203 for stereo player outputs and A203 for stereo amplifier outputs).
You have to do these “DakiOm tweaks” because there is no commercially available products that give equivalent improvement in sound
quality. You cannot buy this much improvement in musicality no matter how much you are willing to pay because there is no
off the shelf expensive component that does the same thing. Expensive components
may look good but they definitely sound just as bad as cheap ones. If you want good music, the only available options are:
1. DakiOm DIY or,
2. Pay someone to do DakiOm tweaks. You may even start your own business doing them for others.
No guarantee is provided for the accuracy of the information or the application of the information provided on this web site. Dakiom accepts no responsibility or liability with regards to the use the information provided, for any purpose. The user accepts full responsibility for all information provided here in. DIY is for people with training in the
subject. If you are in doubt, always seek the help of a professional!
Before Starting a DIY
Project You Must Understand The Goal
1. Explore your ways to differentiate sound quality. Forget past propaganda by the audio establishment. Concentrate more on comparing the feeling of pleasure in long term listening. Pay much less attention on silky mid-range, huge sound stage, transparent, neutral, etc. Simply put, the better component allows you to enjoy music longer term. Only
poor components need the vagueness of "better sound stage",
"silkier mid-range" and other meaningless vocabulary to deceive you.
2. Explore ways to verify your differentiation of sound quality to eliminate placebo, bias effects. Listening is subjective. There is no
100% objective listening. There are only objective testing methods. To be real, the subjective perception must be identified consistently, repeatedly by objective testing methods. Blind tests are good but are not necessary. Blind tests are needed only in the beginning when you are not sure what is musicality. When you catch your meaning of musicality then, sighted tests are good enough for yourself. But remember that in order to convince others of your findings, blind tests are required.
By the way, there is not yet a correlation between musicality and electronically measurable variables. Audio is still in the primitive stage of development, human ears are still needed in the design of audio components.
You must be able to identify the rendition B of a song you like most, under A/B blind tests, consistently and repeatedly. If you can do so then the tweak B works.
Symptoms of a Bad Audio
The question is how do you know that you love music but your audio system is unsatisfactory?
Symptom: You don’t listen to music that much, you don’t care to turn on your system, even though from
time to time you really enjoy your favorite songs.
Symptom: You enjoy music only for a short time, then get bored or start having headache (no kidding, many people can’t stand long term exposure to bad music). By the way, it may be a good idea to expose young kids to good music, preventing possible adverse effect of bad music on their development. Therefore parents have
the obligation to find out what is good music.
If you don’t have the above symptoms then you don’t need high fidelity audio (but your kids may). Our
advice is to be patient and explore anyways. Get a feel of whether or not you can recognize better music. Our bet is yes, you can. Please, do start with the testing of DakiOm DIY on your
system. If you notice the improved music then make sure you buy all needed DakiOm products to improve further your enjoyment of music.
At DakiOm, we believe that the majority of people have musicality inherent in their being. Musicality is personal as evidenced by the fact that people like a variety of kinds of music. The trick is to help people recognize their sense of musicality. Telling people to listen and decide for themselves is a non-starter. People have already done that and they already know what songs they like but they still don’t know what is musicality.
There must be a clear procedure, step by step instruction that people can use to distinguish nuances of their like/dislike about music. High fidelity audio is for people who want to develop further their musicality, maybe to the point where an initially subtle musical nuance become more dominant, more important later. It is rewarding to sharpen your musical taste. You will find that good music is a wonderful entertainment alternative.
The most basic aspects of good music are impressionable familiarity and emotional connection. Example of familiarity: A tune that you like gets stuck longer in your head, a piece of music that you dislike gives you headache. An emotional song stirs your soul. These aspects of music remain in long term memory such that
comparison is more accurate. Other terms such as tight bass, silky mid-range, big sound stage … are vague and disappear as soon as the music stops, not good as comparative attributes of sound quality but perfect to sell
Therefore our proposed DakiOm
Comparative Listening Test deals with repetition of one song for testing the impressionability of familiarity and the emotional connection. The better rendition of a song is the one that imprints
comfortably in your head and gives good feelings. A bad rendition of a song is the one you run away from after comparing it to a better rendition.
So, listen to each rendition of a song for many times in a row (say 5 times) to learn (by feeling, not by analysis) the subtleties, then compare how you feel about each rendition. Repeat the comparison many more times until you can decide which rendition you like most. The comparison is fast if the differences in the renditions are huge. The comparison is more difficult if both renditions are about the same. But, keep on comparing, after a while, you will become more and more apt to recognize what you like.
We invite you to begin
with us a wonderful journey into a new musical world. Also, please feel free to
stop by our new
office/showroom for a demonstration of how good a
fully tweaked system can sound. Enjoy!
Please Carefully Read Through This Entire Web Page Before Attempting Any
DIY Project! No guarantee is provided for the accuracy of the information or the application of the information provided on this web site. Dakiom accepts no responsibility or liability with regards to the use the information provided, for any purpose. The user accepts full responsibility for all information provided here in. DIY is for people with training in the
subject. If you are in doubt, always seek the help of a professional!
DIY Project #1
DakiOm DIY Interconnects
Select a very flexible interconnect, cheap kinds
are OK. In fact cheap kinds are generally thin and flexible, very good for DIY interconnect. Flexibility is selected to minimize effect of mechanical vibration on the impedance LCR of the DIY interconnects.
Cut it into 2 equal segments such that the combined length of both is barely enough to span the components to be connected. (Taking into account the length reserved for stripping and splicing). If you change components arrangement, make another set of interconnects.
(Well, interconnect can be long but you have to fold it neatly to control vibration, otherwise, make it
Reference to Fig 1. Solder (the 2 ends of) a RF choke to each (+) wire of the 2 segments (of the cut interconnect). Next, solder together the ground shields of the 2 segments. Select RF choke value of about 22.0
uH (micro-henry); current rating compatible with your need,
ordinarily 100mA or more is good.
Now you have an interconnect having a
22uH RF choke* inserted in the middle. Cover the bare exposed conductors with tape or heat shrinkable tube. Now, plug it into the components. Best is to
make sure the cable avoids touching any vibrating spot such as a
table, piece of equipment, floor, wall, etc.
Note: If you have
a feedback stabilizer, connect it to the audio player side of the
interconnect. Even without the stabilizer, this interconnect will
produce better overall results over a wider range of equipment and
music than expensive boutique interconnects.
the inductor, you can try using Mouser.com part number 70-IR2-27 or
** Best is to buy a bunch of the above parts, then add them in series, one at a time, until you don't perceive improvement anymore. Up to 5 inductors in series may be added (total inductance is about 100-120 uH) for better sound. Don't worry about audio signals, they are good up to 100KHz, even the input capacitance of pre-amp/amp is about 4700 pF. It is the conducted EMI/noises and vibration that you have to worry about, not audio treble cut-off.
DIY Project #2
DakiOm DIY Speaker Cables
Select a very flexible speaker
wire to reduce the negative effects of vibration. We recommend
cable that is stranded with a high number of strands and soft insulation. For
best flexibility, select the smallest wire gauge compatible with your amplifier power and speaker impedance. The
gauge must be good for heat dissipation first, then for less resistive loss. Ordinary, resistive loss can be ignored, unless more than 40’ long. Just satisfying the heat dissipation requirement is good enough. #18 gauge is
good in most applications.
(Refer to Fig.
2). Add 0.56uH air core inductor in series with an inductor of
5.6uH to the hot (+) wire and a Zobel RC (10ohm-0.047uF) from the common point of the two inductors to ground wire.
Terminate the free end of the
0.56uH inductor with a 2” long very flexible hook-up wire, then banana plug/pin/spade or bare tinned wire. Terminate the same for the ground end. These terminations attach to (+)/(-) speaker posts of the amplifier. Use tape or heat shrinkable tube to cover exposed metal.
Cut this speaker cable to length barely enough to span the amplifier and speaker (Or, fold excess length neatly). If the distance is too long, lift the cable off any vibrating contact with strings attached to wall hooks or using soft paper rolls underneath the wires. For stereo systems, best is to move/rearrange components such that the speaker cables hang between the amp and the speakers without touching any thing.
You can play with the values of parts. For some stable amplifier/speakers combination the Zobel and
0.56uH are not needed. For some oscillating amplifiers, they help a lot. If you don’t want to adjust values, just use Fig. 2, it will work
for most amplifiers.
Note: If you have
a feedback stabilizer, connect it to the amplifier side of the
interconnect. Even without the stabilizer, this speaker cable will
produce better overall results over a wider range of equipment and
music than expensive boutique cables.
* For Parts, try
- 0.56 uH = Handbuilt, 7 turns #20 magnet wire on 1/2"OD plastic
- 10 ohm = any metal film, 5%, 1 watt resistor
- 5.6uH = Mouser.com 434-13-5R6M
- 0.047uF = Mouser.com 5989-250V.047F
DIY Project #3
DakiOm DIY Power Supply,
Stabilization, and Clean-up
This DIY tweak is best for power amplifiers, but it needs DakiOm products
(A103/103+/203, MA103/203/253, etc). If you don’t want to buy our products yet, the
DakiOm DIY Power Cord (Project#4) is much better than any boutique cord.
Open the amplifier top. Locate the secondary windings of the transformer
powering the speaker-outputs of the amplifier. Separate the transformer secondary leads into hot(+), hot(-) and GND/ground (just before the big rectifier bridge and big storage capacitors).
Use a prototyping board to solder the circuit of Fig. 3 (try L=10
uH, then tweak value to more/less). Secure the board to somewhere inside the amplifier enclosure.
Cut, strip and connect the transformer secondary leads (+), (-) and GND to the board, using enough length of additional very flexible hook-up wires, as shown in Fig 3.
Now the power supply is much more immune to LCR variation of the AC wiring due to vibration, including that of house AC wiring. House AC noise is also cleaned-up thanks to the storage capacitors and the inserted inductors. Power supply is now stable and clean, it will not induce excessive oscillations to the outputs.
Now you can use any power cord (cheap is absolutely OK), and no need for dedicated AC lines, just plug the equipment in any adequately supply AC outlet.
For Parts, try using:
- Quantity Four (4) L= Mouser.com "807-DC780-473K",
each initially 47 uH, then unwound until 18uH
- Two C = Mouser.com "5989-250V.1F" (0.10 uF,250VDC.
- DakiOm A103 (or A203/A253)
DIY Project #4
DakiOm DIY Power Cord
This DIY tweak is best
used when applied to all audio components.
We are still working on stabilization
solutions for the power supply of players and pre-amps. For the moment, an inserted inductor of 22 -
47uH* in series to both hot wires of the AC power cord (cut black and white wires, leave the safety green wire unchanged) will help a lot. Current rating of inductor must be compatible with rating of power cord. Preferably the power cord must be very flexible to control vibration of wires and inductors. Cheap flexible wires are good. Just be sure to conform to AC safety
regulations for all parts and connections. The power cord (and
especially the inductor) should be hung/routed in such a way to
minimize contact with a vibrating surface.
See Fig.1 for ideas of how to insert an inductor in series to a cut wire.
This DIY power cord (and vibration control of the whole cord) may not be the perfect solution but it is ten times better than the most expensive boutique cord
or dedicated AC line connection.
If you are already
using the DIY power supply cleanup circuit from project #3 then a
DIY cable is not needed for the same piece of equipment.
the two inductors, you can try using Mouser.com part number 580-1447383C (47uH, 8.3A, High power), or 580-18473C (47uH, 1.65A, Low power)
Fig. 4: DIY Power Cord
DIY Project #5
DakiOm DIY Vibration
our article Is
Vibration Detrimental to the Performance of Audio Components
for background information on this DIY tweak.
only things added to the project ideas listed in the article are:
A rubber hose of 3/8 to ˝ inch diameter can be used as core for the paper rolls. Ideally the hose must have a 50% diameter deformation under weight, but start with any hose you have easy access to.
See picture below.
Just add paper to the rubber core until the deformation is about 20% of the roll diameter, under speaker weight or amplifier weight.
For lighter components, softer rubber cores may be needed, just roll enough paper to have 20% diameter deformation. Deformation may change with time, add more paper to restore 20% deformation.
Regular (20lb) office paper works fine.
The paper rolls are superior to rubbery feet, spikes, wooden blocks, heavy plates, ordinary stands, ordinary racks etc. Maybe some racks/stands are better but you have to find them first. Performance of paper rolls is hard to beat.
Be inventive and consider stacking up more stages of paper rolls of different “hardness”. Securing the paper rolls to plates for each stacking may help steadying the stacked assembly.
put these vibration isolators under every piece of audio component
and speakers for best results. Make sure whatever you put them
under remains stable, secure, and well balanced. You can even
put these under a bunch of audio cables and power cords
If you have the time, we also recommend reading the
and Views page to get the latest information and commentary from DakiOm.
You may contact us anytime. We welcome you to
express your ideas, comments, and opinions.